36 Hours: Nantucket.

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      NEAR the beginning of ''Moby-Dick,'' Ishmael explains why he decided to set sail from Nantucket: ''There was a fine, boisterous something about everything connected with that famous old island.'' Today, nearly 160 years after being written, that characterization still rings true. Though its downtown cobblestone streets and windswept fringes are now filled with expensive (some say exorbitant) restaurants and elegant cocktail bars, the island still has a swagger. To see it in full swing, linger over pints at one of the many harborside pubs, especially at sundown when sailors and fishing boats return to port. Friday [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]
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