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      They may have been photographing flamingos, but this was no trip to a tropical paradise for brothers Anup Shah and Manoj Shah. The lesser flamingos of East Africa's sunbaked Rift Valley flock to the region's alkaline soda lakes. Some of these slimy lakes have water caustic enough to irritate human skin; others bubble with burning thermal springs. The flamingos' legs have a tough protective skin, but our photographers had no such advantage. To find more stories from authors and photographers, including their best, worst, and quirkiest experiences, visit the website nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0312.